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In one of my previous posts I described a shoulder dart calculation method. It is, of course, one of many, and possibly one of the easiest. Today I’d like to tell you about another method, much more complicated and for this reason much more interesting (to me, anyway).
This pattern drafting method was developed by an organisation called “Central Institute of Scientific Research of Apparel Manufacturing” in ex-USSR. The development of this method took 20 years (1959-1979) – that’s right, a team full of professionals had been working on it for two decades. Needless to say, it is complicated. I have drafted a couple of blocks using this method recently and the fit was great, but make one mistake and the whole thing is ruined. Here is how you calculate and draft a shoulder dart using this method.