Jess jeans updated and on sale!

It has been raining here a lot and the urge to sew coats and jackets is rising, but I must stay focused. My patterns upgrade is in full swing and I just finished working on Jess jeans.

1401 tech

That’s right, Jess jeans is now fully upgraded, reviewed and back in stock!

One of the main changes is that it now has two front closure options – button fly and a zip fly.
I have reviewed the instructions and the pattern and added a few helpful things, such as finished garment measurements, a few more illustrations, better product page and additional printing formats.

Jess jeans pattern is now available in several formats:

  • pdf version for A4 and US Letter size paper, for home printers
  • pdf version for A0 size paper for printing at the copy shop
  • pdf version for 36” (91.4 cm) wide continuous roll paper for plotter printing
  • and paper version with printed sewing instructions.

The pattern pieces no longer overlap, just cut and sew.

To celebrate the rejuvenation of Jess jeans pattern, I am offering it to you at a 20% discount for one week, so get your copy today!

Jess Sew-Along #10: Double buttons sewing and hem

This is the last blog post in Jess jeans sewalong! All we have to do is to add some finishing touches.


First, mark the position of the buttons as described in Jess Sew-Along #7. Since the buttons will be under a lot of stress, your 1.5 cm (9/16″) “fashion” buttons must be enforced by tiny backing buttons. This will ensure that your buttons will not tear out of the fabric.


It will also help if your buttons are sewn on with a shank.
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Jess Sew-Along #9: Sewing on the waistband

Today we are finally going to join all the parts together.

Align the unfinished waistband’s edge with the trouser top edge. Make absolutely sure side seams line up by pre-sewing them (as described in one of the previous posts) and the centre of the back waistband lines up exactly with the centre back seam.

wbnd sewn on

You could see red basting on the photos in my previous posts. I basted the trousers all around to make sure that my waistband is sewn on exactly how I want it – to be more precise that the gap between the pocket welt and the waistband is the same for all three pockets.

Don’t be shy of basting – whatever it takes to sew the waistband perfectly.
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Jess Sew-Along #5: Back pocket

Today we are going to finish sewing pockets.

The back pocket is very similar to the front pockets, with the only difference – it is decorative.

I was asked why I made it this way. The reason is that tension at the back of the jeans makes the back pocket gap. It might not be a serious issue for you, so you are welcome to improvise.

And so we are sewing the back pocket (the decorative one).
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Jess Sew-Along #4: Front pockets

Let’s sew some pockets!

The two functioning single welt pockets are located on both trouser fronts.
To sew them we will need:

  • trouser fronts
  • pocket bags
  • front trouser backings
  • front pocket welts

Interface your welts for crispness and stability.

Place your pocket backing face up onto your pocket bag. This pocket backing is going to end up INSIDE your pocket bag. Its function is to fill the empty space behind the trouser pocket cut out.
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Jess Sew-Along #3: Waistband

Waistband and pockets are the two places where you have to do your very best job. These are the focal points of your jeans and, executed well, will make the entire garment look very RTW indeed.

Also, this post is long.

In this part:

  • Stitching all the small waistband bits together
  • A tip on how to line up your seams perfectly
  • Some extra preparational steps you don’t see mentioned anywhere

Let’s get started.
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Thread, needles and spray starch

Before we begin sewing I’d like to share some technical details.

Thread, needles, etc

To sew Jess jeans I used AMANN Rasant 120 polyester/cotton thread for seams and Gütermann 100% polyester topstitch thread for topstitching. Rasant was used as a bobbin thread almost everywhere – except waistband/trouser seam topstitching. There I used topstitching thread on the bobbin and Rasant as a top thread.

Topstitching thread (sold here at Spotlights and Lincrafts by a whopping 30 m/33 yd per spool) almost ran out by the end of the project and I did only minimal re-stitching, so it would be a good idea to have a second spool as a backup.
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Jess Sew-Along #1: Let’s Get Started!

Welcome to Jess jeans sew along!

Today we are going to:

  • Assemble the PDF pattern
  • Check your size
  • Adjust length and grade half a size up or down



If you are not one of those who have purchased a paper version of Jess or printed it out on one big piece of paper, this part is for you.

Print the first page of your A4/USL pattern and measure the test square. If the test square is correct, print the rest of the pages.

Lay your printed pages on the floor or table in the correct order to check that all pages are there.

Trim the pages along the right and bottom edge only, then overlap and tape the pages together making sure all the lines match. After this, we are ready for the next step – checking the size and making changes.

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Update: Jess Sew-Along Starts on Tuesday!

Get ready, only 5 days left to go!

We will begin with printing out and assembling the PDF pattern and then sew the jeans step by step – the muslin fitting part will not be included.

I will publish 2 blog posts a week on Tuesdays and Thursdays, so you won’t feel rushed. There are around 10 posts planned, and links to all of them will be published on sew-along page for your future reference. And of course, yours truly will endeavour to answer all your questions regarding Jess jeans pattern.