One neat armscye finish.

Today I’ll show you a finish option for a lower part of the armscye, which works particularly well with cap sleeves. I see it often in RTW garments, and I found it to be very practical and neat finish.


To do this, you will need a piece of bias strip, which you will fold in half lengthwise.
The finished width of the strip is up to you, I found that 2.3 cm (15/16”) works well with 1.2 cm (1/2”) seam allowances. And so, let’s begin.
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Sewing placket button closure.

Today I am going to show you how to sew a front placket button closure.

This is a very easy and effective technique, which is widely used on various types of garments, such as polo shirts, clothes for children and sportswear. I used it in dress pattern #1306 and it created a beautiful and functional front closure and a focal point.


We start with preparing the plackets. If you are using patterned fabric, try cutting the placket in such a way that the design is centred.
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Sewing the strappy dress: finishing touches.

Today we finish sewing your Strappy dress! If you’ve missed some of the previous posts on this subject, here are the links to all of them:

A word about bias
Front pleats
Bust darts and french seams
Neckline and straps

We are about to put some finishing touches to your dress: finish the straps, centre front and sew the hem.
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Sewing the strappy dress: neckline and straps

Today we’ll do the most time consuming part of the whole Strappy dress, which is bias binding the neckline and sewing the straps.

To make the binding this thin look good requires some seriously precise sewing, so don’t start it if you are tired. Executed correctly, it will add elegance and lightness to your dress, so don’t rush it.
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Sewing the strappy dress: front pleats.

Pleats are attractive  and functional. Pleats add fullness and movement without bulk.

When I made the first version of the Strappy dress, the front was flat and looked unfinished and lacking. Then idea of pleats occurred to me and it all changed in an instant. Light, airy fabrics need some volume to truly shine, it’s undeniable.
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How to do FBA or SBA on a blouse with pleats

I thought it would be wise to post a video tutorial about how to adjust Rachel blouse pattern for full or small bust. You know, pictures are great, but there is nothing like seeing it in action :)

So here it is, how to adjust a bodice for a full or small bust where the bust dart has been transformed into pleats.

A few words about Sammy cami

With the Sammy cami downloads in many hundreds, it’s time I posted something about it.

First of all, I am thrilled you like it, a special thank you if you’ve left a review, every review makes my day, no kidding.

I’ve also became aware of people needing more help with the Sammy straps concept. I realise that for many it is a completely new approach to sewing straps, so I’ve decided to post a small tutorial to help you out.

But before I begin, I’d like to address a curling issue. Sometimes you buy a beautiful knit and the minute you cut it, it curls into a tight little tube and no amount of pressing can fix it.

I had to deal with it while I was sewing one of my many Sammys and my advise is – do not underestimate the power of simple remedies. You already know of my fondness towards the spray starch as an aide for sewing sticky materials such as pleather. This time spray starch comes to the rescue as a fabric straightener.

spray starch
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Patch pocket for Jackie coat

Do you know there is a Jackie coat sew along in progress at Janelle’s? Janelle and Maria have prepared a great list of topics to help you sew a Jackie coat in no time. I decided to do my bit for the team with a small pattern hack. This one is about pockets.

If you are not completely sure that you can handle a single welt pocket and a thought of cutting a hole in your beautiful coat gives you heart palpitations, a patch pocket is a perfect option for you.

patch pocket design

As always, this is not just a stink little “sew a patch here” kind of pocket, you know me, I don’t do things by half :) This is a self-faced, lined, interfaced pocket that will look great, last a long time and will give you another sewing technique to squirrel away for the future projects.

And so, why is it self-faced? Because it has a facing that is cut with a main pocket as a single pattern piece.
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Sewing on a waistband or a cuff

Look at these pants.


Can you see it?

Can you see this amazing waistband sewn on with a surgical precision?? In pleather??

Now look me in the eye and say that you don’t want to know how Alethia of Sew Much Talent managed to sew such a perfection.

I just had to know, so I asked her. And just as well. This waistband was sewn “inside out”. Alethia started from the inside and finished on the outside: not the way they usually teach you.
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