One neat armscye finish.


Today I’ll show you a finish option for a lower part of the armscye, which works particularly well with cap sleeves. I see it often in RTW garments, and I found it to be very practical and neat finish.

Preparation

To do this, you will need a piece of bias strip, which you will fold in half lengthwise.
The finished width of the strip is up to you, I found that 2.3 cm (15/16”) works well with 1.2 cm (1/2”) seam allowances. And so, let’s begin.
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Sewing placket button closure.


Today I am going to show you how to sew a front placket button closure.

This is a very easy and effective technique, which is widely used on various types of garments, such as polo shirts, clothes for children and sportswear. I used it in dress pattern #1306 and it created a beautiful and functional front closure and a focal point.

Preparation

We start with preparing the plackets. If you are using patterned fabric, try cutting the placket in such a way that the design is centred.
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Sewing the strappy dress: finishing touches.


Today we finish sewing your Strappy dress! If you’ve missed some of the previous posts on this subject, here are the links to all of them:

A word about bias
Front pleats
Bust darts and french seams
Neckline and straps

We are about to put some finishing touches to your dress: finish the straps, centre front and sew the hem.
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Sewing the strappy dress: neckline and straps


Today we’ll do the most time consuming part of the whole Strappy dress, which is bias binding the neckline and sewing the straps.

To make the binding this thin look good requires some seriously precise sewing, so don’t start it if you are tired. Executed correctly, it will add elegance and lightness to your dress, so don’t rush it.
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Sewing the strappy dress: front pleats.


Pleats are attractive  and functional. Pleats add fullness and movement without bulk.

When I made the first version of the Strappy dress, the front was flat and looked unfinished and lacking. Then idea of pleats occurred to me and it all changed in an instant. Light, airy fabrics need some volume to truly shine, it’s undeniable.
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Cape blazer sewing pattern

There’s simply no denying it – cape blazers are a hot trend.

They are everywhere – celebrities are wearing them, stores are stocking them, and you we see more and more of them on the streets.

Once I noticed a cape blazer on Pinterest, it immediately caught my eye. It seemed to be a very natural progression from wearing a blazer thrown over the shoulders that seemed to be all the rage for a short time. Now you can actually wear it AND look casual and unintentionally chic at the same time!

Pinterest board

I can also tell you this – cape jacket is cozy. I hate cold, and at first the sleeve slits seemed like a chilly idea to say the least, but once I had that jacket on it felt like wearing a blanket over your shoulders.
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Developing a custom pattern. Part two: the lining.


I’m sure you’ve been hanging out to see how I develop a lining pattern for the modified Simplicity dress, right? :) Well, here it is.

Last time I showed you a personal block modifications to develop a pattern design similar to Simplicity 2550.

Today I’ll show you how I developed a lining pattern for this garment.

The dress I need to line is sleeveless, has a centre back zip, back skirt vent and no facings.
The plan is to make the lining as seam free as possible.
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Developing a custom pattern. Part one.


In my line of work it’s pretty normal – a client brings me a sewing pattern with the design she is after, but because she wants some heavy modifications done (or the pattern can not accommodate her figure) the pattern itself can not be used.

To be honest, even if the pattern was usable, I’d still prefer drafting my own. I like having the full control of the ease and, ultimately, the fit of the garment. I also like taking the full credit when the fit is awesome (hehe).

So I thought, why not share my process? Maybe It might be of some interest to you?

And so, this time I have to work with Simplicity 2550 design.

Simplicity 2550

My objective is to make a dress like the red one, but with a scoop neckline, sleeveless and fully lined. This is how I make this happen.
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The Melbourne Frocktails Bolero


I’ve always been a bolero fan.

I like the drama, the embroidery, the length. It is also very flattering on my type of figure – the rectangle. The bolero can dress up many outfits, even the most boring tee shirt and jeans.

When I was planning my Melbourne Frocktails outfit, there were a few things I knew I didn’t want. First of all, I didn’t want a frock. For some reason, I never feel comfortable enough in dresses, and an elaborate cocktail dress would make me feel like a fraud. I just feel more myself wearing trousers.
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The one and only.


From my previous posts you know that my man is very particular about his clothes. If he could, he’d never go clothes shopping. He hates choosing, trying on, and is very suspicious of the brands he has never worn before (that would be pretty much every brand out there). He approaches new clothes like a wild animal – circling and eyeing them suspiciously. Many clothes never make it to the first wear, most others will get worn only once.
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