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I have finished a custom white shirt not long ago.
I really enjoyed working on it and I really like the result too.
I wanted to add a back pleat for ease of movement, but at the same time I didn’t want to add any width below shoulder blades.
The solution came from David Coffin’s “Shirtmaking techniques” book. In his book David mentions a complex back pleat that does exactly what I wanted.
Unfortunately he does not offer a step-by-step on it, just a schematic drawing and a photo. It took a bit of investigation, some trials and errors, but I got it and I think it looks great.
I will use this pleat again, it is a very clever little trick.
So here are a few detailed shots.