Showing off


I have finished a custom white shirt not long ago.
I really enjoyed working on it and I really like the result too.

I wanted to add a back pleat for ease of movement, but at the same time I didn’t want to add any width below shoulder blades.
The solution came from David Coffin’s “Shirtmaking techniques” book. In his book David mentions a complex back pleat that does exactly what I wanted.
Unfortunately he does not offer a step-by-step on it, just a schematic drawing and a photo. It took a bit of investigation, some trials and errors, but I got it and I think it looks great.
I will use this pleat again, it is a very clever little trick.

So here are a few detailed shots.

Lena Merrin
Lena Merrin

A dressmaker of many years, I enjoy drafting patterns and create custom garments.

6 thoughts on “Showing off

  1. VIckie says:

    Nice treatment. It looks like the pleat is tapered and then the outer edge folded again and top stitched. How far down does the stitching go? Nicely bar tacked across the bottom edge. Gives a great effect.

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