Trouser pattern adjustment for forward tilted hips

Late last year I was contacted by Barb. Barb had a trouser fit problem no alteration seemed to get rid of – the trousers sagged at the back. The same problem seemed to appear every time and stayed no matter what. A very annoying situation.

Here is Barb’s starting point, if I remember correctly it is Burda pattern

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I added some red lines to bring out the problem. And the problem is all that fabric below the seat, soft folds at the back.This points to the balance problem – these (or all previous trousers) had a wrong balance for Barb’s figure and now we needed to find out how wrong  they actually were.
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Pleats and plaids

A while ago I was trying to make up my mind about what trousers I shall make out of my lovely stretch suiting. The shorts I made are lovely, and fit very well, but I was not sure about the pleated front, as I had some not-so-pretty pleated fronts before.

So, after long deliberation and search I found what I was looking for – a very smart pair of trousers (spotted on Victoria’s Secrets website) without pleats. I think my fabric looks exactly as the one pictured, it should be a satisfying project!

On top of this I am busy deconstructing my woollen jacket.
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That puzzling distance at the knee

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Linda asked me about that distance K K’ on trouser draft ( now shown in green ) I displayed in my knock knee alteration post.

This draft is taken from a book on menswear tailoring, and I have not seen this straight distance on any other draft before or after this book. It only confirms that there are as many ways to draft a pair of trousers as there are people willing to do it :)

The book says :

… find a knee level by dividing distance between seat line and hem line by two. Then mark a point 6 cm above the knee line and mark it K’. If the trouser pattern you require is not of a classic cut, then don’t mark point K’ and proceed usual..

This is it, no further information is offered on the subject,  barely enough to satisfy our curiousity!

Trouser pocket tutorial

I have not posted any sewing tutorials so far and I’d like to rectify this. You might find them interesting, I know I always look through tutorials on your sewing blogs and sometimes I find very interesting and original variations of the same old techniques.

Today’s tutorial is about sewing a front trouser pocket. Click the pictures for a better look and instructions.

I begin with laying the facings on top of the trouser pocket. The pocket is cut as a single piece to avoid unnecessary seams. I try to reduce bulk whenever possible.

Aldrich pants: Second fitting

I have made the alterations to the original pattern and came up with this pair of pants. The 2 cm fold has certainly solved a few fit problems such as bulging front and excess at the back. The trousers also fit closer to body and feel  “secure”. Please disregard the terrible lump on my right hip – there is a fat seam there and it is sticking out like a sore thumb. Look away!

Ok the waist is comfortable now and the strain is gone

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The butt ears have been removed

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And here is the back view. The back seam really is comfortable and not cutting in ( it looks like it does though ). I still have a slight problem with the fit though. Those diagonal wrinkles bother me, and there seems to be too much fabric at the back. I think it might have something to do with the back inseam being too long for my type of figure. I might pin that wrinkle and see if I like the result.