What you need to know about sewing linen shirts.

With summer pretty much here (we skipped spring this year), I needed some new summer clothes. Of course, I should have thought about it before the temperatures hit mid-30, but my summer fabric stash was very dull and I wanted something fresh and exciting.

Linen is one of my summer favourites, and in addition to its benefits that everyone knows about, it is also impossible to find in RTW (well, not in my price range, anyway). So imagine my delight when I received an email from The Fabric Store advertising their linen sale at measly $10/m?
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Showing off

I have finished a custom white shirt not long ago.
I really enjoyed working on it and I really like the result too.

I wanted to add a back pleat for ease of movement, but at the same time I didn’t want to add any width below shoulder blades.
The solution came from David Coffin’s “Shirtmaking techniques” book. In his book David mentions a complex back pleat that does exactly what I wanted.
Unfortunately he does not offer a step-by-step on it, just a schematic drawing and a photo. It took a bit of investigation, some trials and errors, but I got it and I think it looks great.
I will use this pleat again, it is a very clever little trick.

So here are a few detailed shots.