Trouser pattern adjustment for forward tilted hips

Late last year I was contacted by Barb. Barb had a trouser fit problem no alteration seemed to get rid of – the trousers sagged at the back. The same problem seemed to appear every time and stayed no matter what. A very annoying situation.

Here is Barb’s starting point, if I remember correctly it is Burda pattern

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I added some red lines to bring out the problem. And the problem is all that fabric below the seat, soft folds at the back.This points to the balance problem – these (or all previous trousers) had a wrong balance for Barb’s figure and now we needed to find out how wrong  they actually were.
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Nuts for trousers

trousers
It seems that all I sew these days is pants.

In several weeks I have made stretch jeans, shorts, PJs and about to start working on VS dressy trousers.

Perfect trouser patterns are so rare I have never seen one. Every single trouser pattern I touched ended up sliced and diced and altered to such degree, there was nothing left of the original.
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Skirt balance adjustment for forward tilted pelvis and/or round bottom

Here it is, the last part of balance adjustment post. I made this video without any captions, because in this case it is easier to write separate instructions.

Front part of the skirt

  • Lower the front part ( closest to CF ) by amount calculated in this blog post.
  • Restore the front waist length by adjusting front dart width.

 

Back part of the skirt

  • Cut out the back dart and cut though the marked line. Raise the part closest to the centre back by amount calculated here.
  • Middle part is tilted to the left by 0.5 cm.
  • Left part is raised as shown.
  • Take the side seam in at the waist by up to 1 cm.
  • Move the side seam towards the front by 0.5-1 cm
  • Side seam length remains the same.
  • Desired width of the second ( left ) dart is no more than 3 cm, first ( right ) back dart is no more than 4 cm.
  • To reduce the second ( left ) back dart width, take in the CB seam. Adjust the second ( left )  back dart to restore waistline length.

The final block depending on the amount of adjustment may or may not have a dart in front;
may have one or two darts at the back.

Easy!

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