Developing a custom pattern. Part two: the lining.

I’m sure you’ve been hanging out to see how I develop a lining pattern for the modified Simplicity dress, right? :) Well, here it is.

Last time I showed you a personal block modifications to develop a pattern design similar to Simplicity 2550.

Today I’ll show you how I developed a lining pattern for this garment.

The dress I need to line is sleeveless, has a centre back zip, back skirt vent and no facings.
The plan is to make the lining as seam free as possible.
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Old school: A shoulder dart for nerds

In one of my previous posts I described a shoulder dart calculation method. It is, of course, one of many, and possibly one of the easiest. Today I’d like to tell you about another method, much more complicated and for this reason much more interesting (to me, anyway).

This pattern drafting method was developed by an organisation called “Central Institute of Scientific Research of Apparel Manufacturing” in ex-USSR. The development of this method took 20 years (1959-1979) – that’s right, a team full of professionals had been working on it for two decades. Needless to say, it is complicated. I have drafted a couple of blocks using this method recently and the fit was great, but make one mistake and the whole thing is ruined. Here is how you calculate and draft a shoulder dart using this method.
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