Choices, choices

Before I did my balance adjustment I had a choice to make.

Which skirt draft to use as a base for my adjustment? Is there really a difference between the drafts? And if there is, how significant is it?
What a perfect time to do a quick comparison between Muller and Aldrich skirt block draft.

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Aldrich is in red

For this experiment I used size 14 standard measurements ( from “Metric pattern cutting” ).
Both blocks are quite similar, but the there are some differences none the less.

I have discovered that Aldrich skirt block is better suited  for a rounder bum.

Why?

Well, see it for yourself.

The results of the experiment

First of all Aldrich skirt has more ease. It is 1.6 cm wider around hips.

Second, the side seams are moved towards the front. Some pattern drafting books insist you move the seams towards the front in every draft, but more often you have to do it if the back side needs extra width.

The Aldrich skirt’s front is 0.7 cm narrower than Muller and back side is 1.3 cm wider.

Aldrich skirt has two back darts instead of Muller’s one. Two darts will give a smoother curve over the bottom.

Aldrich skirt has 13 cm total waist suppression and Muller has 12 cm.

I guess in Muller’s days women preferred more structured, tailored, close-fitting clothes!

Before you ask, I went with Muller’s draft this time.

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Muller vs Fish eye dart ( the full cream version )

Linda asked me why would one choose Muller’s flat seat adjustment over Fish eye dart and vice versa?

I thought it was a very interesting question, so I  decided to have a thorough look into both of these adjustment and pinpoint their strong points and weaknesses.
I took three identical trouser back patterns ( in half-size ) and performed Muller’s adjustment on one of them (in green), Fish eye dart on another ( white ) and left the third one unchanged as control ( red ).

Three pretties

I have reduced the waist dart by half in both cases and taken in the same amount ( half the waist dart width ) at CB in Fish eye adjustment.

The comparison

Fish eye takes more off the back trouser length than Muller’s adjustment ( about 2 times more )

it makes CB seam straighter and shorter. It also changes the shape of CB ( makes the curve tighter ) thus it is a very significant adjustment that produces dramatic results.

Unchanged original pattern is in red
Fish eye: Impact on CB seam

Muller’s adjustment is targeted mostly at the area most of us complain about – under the bum.  It removes length there and leaves everything else pretty much intact.

Muller’s adjustment compared to control

If amount of alteration required leaves you with no back dart whatsoever ( I mean Muller’s case ), then it also narrows the back of the trouser and alters the shape of the side seam, so you must be careful if the side seam was previously meticulously fitted. It borrows from side seams.

Fish eye’s main point of attack is CB. It borrows from side seam and it really robs you at CB length. So unless you are absolutely confident that flat seat is your problem, I’d leave this heavy artillery for later.

BUT if  Muller’s side seam distortion is unacceptable, then proceed with caution with the fish eye, re-check your CB and add to it if necessary.

The findings

Muller’s adjustment produces following changes:

Reduction of the back waist dart by half ( back dart is usually 3.5-4cm wide ) resulted in approximately 1 cm reduction in trouser back length.
Side seam and waistline became more curved,  CB seam became more slanted by approximately 0.5 cm. The length of the CB seam is unchanged. It means that Muller’s adjustment is pin pointed on the area of interest – back of trousers.

Fish eye dart produces following changes:

Reduction in trouser back length is about two times more than one in Muller’s alteration.
Waist at side seam is reduced by double of the Muller’s amount.
CB  is shortened by 1.5 cm, straightened.
Grain line has shifted towards the side seam, hip line tilted to the back.
CB became more scooped.

And here are the pictures worth thousand words

Muller over Fish eye
Fish eye over Muller

In all, it was an eye-opener and a trouser shortener :)

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Muller vs Fish eye dart ( 99% fat free version )

Linda asked me why would one choose Muller’s flat seat adjustment over Fish eye dart and vice versa?

I thought it was a very interesting question, so I  decided to have a thorough look into both of these adjustment and pinpoint their strong points and weaknesses.
I took three identical trouser back patterns ( in half-size ) and performed Muller’s adjustment on one of them (in green), Fish eye dart on another ( white ) and left the third one unchanged as control ( red ).

Three pretties

I have reduced the waist dart by half in both cases and taken in the same amount ( half the waist dart width ) at CB in Fish eye adjustment.

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