I'd rather not

Some people think that just because I can sew, I love sewing everything – womenswear, chilldrenswear, menswear, cushions, aprons, curtains and everything in between. I must confess that it’s not the case. While I believe I can sew anything I want, what I really enjoy is women’s daywear. This is what I sew the most and can get the most use of.

What I try to stay away from is menswear. I don’t like sewing for my husband, hear me out:

  • My husband is extremely picky when it comes to fabric. I mean, the stuff he wants probably doesn’t even exist. It must be exactly correct colour, texture and weight. It has to breathe but it must not wrinkle. It also must withstand years of gruelling wear and tear.
  • My husband’s body weight is rather dynamic. He can easily lose a few kilos between measuring and first fitting. Or put a few on.
  • He wears his clothes longer than anyone I know. He still owns a rugby jersey he got at high school. He hates throwing away stuff or buy new clothes because they never fit (see the reason above). He wears clothes until fabric turns into dust.
  • He carries everything in his pockets. He needs lots of pockets. Big ones.
  • When he finds the item he likes, he doesn’t let go. He wants the same one in every colour, with restrictions outlined in the first bullet point.

So when I get asked if I sew for my husband I say “I’d rather not!”

But the time comes when I must. And this time is now.
Continue reading

Cargos done

And here they are – the cargos are done. And not only cargos. I was so inspired by their androgynous look that I made a little top to go with them. I call it “The shirt trapped in Camisole’s body” :) A little mockery of guy’s shirt’n’cargos look.

The cargos are extremely comfortable, so many pockets! I used ribbing to bring them in a little closer to legs, but they would have been fine without it also, I just wanted something different, I guess.

The pattern required some last-minute middle seam alteration, nothing too drastic, about 1/4 inch to take in extra width.

The cami took all up one day from idea to the finish, pattern included. The hardest part is to make sure all checks match.




Cargos vs. Cargos

For a long time I have been comparing men’s clothes to the women’s clothes. There is much more to men’s clothes than a backwards fly closure, let me tell you! I will not go into all the subtle and odd details one has to consider while drafting a classic men’s trouser pattern –  just a TRUE classic  fly closure draft will make you weep, not to mention sewing the thing. But besides it, men’s clothing made correctly will last pretty much forever, it is very comfortable and practical. Men’s classic trousers have more ease than woman’s trousers and you also can take them in or out at the back seam. And in general men will prefer comfort over looks, the opposite applies to women.

Do you know a man who would wear cargo pants like these?

With all this in mind, I have decided to take a pattern for men’s trousers and adapt them to my figure just to compare the comfort level. By adapting I mean change the fly closure and suppress the waist, nothing else. I chose pattern 129 from Burda style 04/2010 magazine.

Burda Style 04/2010 page 11


Don’t they look comfortable?

I have finished the pattern adjustments – the trousers needed 12 cm suppression at waist – I’ve added front dart ( hidden behind front patch pocket ) and have taken in side seams and centre back seam. I have also changed the waistband from straight to shaped.

The trousers sit on natural waist and have knee darts, back yoke and plenty of pockets. The fabric I am using is cotton drill in colour “Sand”. I will use bronze snap closures on all pockets ( the ones you hammer in ) and will double stitch most seams.

Wish me luck!