How to do FBA or SBA on a blouse with pleats

I thought it would be wise to post a video tutorial about how to adjust Rachel blouse pattern for full or small bust. You know, pictures are great, but there is nothing like seeing it in action :)

So here it is, how to adjust a bodice for a full or small bust where the bust dart has been transformed into pleats.

Trouser pattern adjustment for forward tilted hips Part II

So as you remember, I was helping Barb (known as MNBarb at Pattern Review) to fit her trousers. If you don’t remember, here is the link to my previous post.

After the first round of alterations we ended up with this result

 photo stage1barb_zps1c98748a.jpg

Still far from perfect. So what’s causing this set of wrinkles?
Take a look at this picture
Continue reading

Skirt balance adjustment for forward tilted pelvis and/or round bottom

Here it is, the last part of balance adjustment post. I made this video without any captions, because in this case it is easier to write separate instructions.

Front part of the skirt

  • Lower the front part ( closest to CF ) by amount calculated in this blog post.
  • Restore the front waist length by adjusting front dart width.


Back part of the skirt

  • Cut out the back dart and cut though the marked line. Raise the part closest to the centre back by amount calculated here.
  • Middle part is tilted to the left by 0.5 cm.
  • Left part is raised as shown.
  • Take the side seam in at the waist by up to 1 cm.
  • Move the side seam towards the front by 0.5-1 cm
  • Side seam length remains the same.
  • Desired width of the second ( left ) dart is no more than 3 cm, first ( right ) back dart is no more than 4 cm.
  • To reduce the second ( left ) back dart width, take in the CB seam. Adjust the second ( left )  back dart to restore waistline length.

The final block depending on the amount of adjustment may or may not have a dart in front;
may have one or two darts at the back.