Trouser pattern adjustment for forward tilted hips


Late last year I was contacted by Barb. Barb had a trouser fit problem no alteration seemed to get rid of – the trousers sagged at the back. The same problem seemed to appear every time and stayed no matter what. A very annoying situation.

Here is Barb’s starting point, if I remember correctly it is Burda pattern

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I added some red lines to bring out the problem. And the problem is all that fabric below the seat, soft folds at the back.This points to the balance problem – these (or all previous trousers) had a wrong balance for Barb’s figure and now we needed to find out how wrong¬† they actually were.
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Neckline/armscye finish for knits (and wovens)


This technique will come in handy in so many occasions, you’ll be surprised.

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This type of finish provides great stability yet enough elasticity to your knit edges. It works on necklines, armscyes, wrap tops (where the edge must stay flexible but not stretch over time). The same technique can be used if you’d like to eliminate stretch completely, but in this case you’d need to add stabilizing tape.
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What shark bite and skirt vent have in common


Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water, here is another skirt vent post. Will they ever end?? :) See the previous posts here, here and here and here

So today I’d like to discuss skirt vent lining. Well, actually it doesn’t have to be just a skirt vent, because a coat or jacket vent can be lined in a similar way.

As usual, there are several ways to do it – from a cheap and quick to a more grown-up way. Every method has its fans and haters, but today I’ll cover the one I am most fond of.

So, what does the easiest skirt vent lining method has in common with a shark bite?

They look practically the same. The lining is cut out in an arch over the vent, overlocked and left hanging there looking like a shark bitten surf board.

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If you finish your vent like this, you must be pretty confident no one ever sees inside of your skirt.
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Vent spreading prevention trick


This is a very effective trick to stop your vents, slits and pleats from spreading.

You can find previous posts on vents here, here and here

Before I begin, I must mention that there are many reasons why vents would spread. The skirt may be too small at the hips, the skirt may be pegged too much, or the CB seam may be too long (may happen if the bum is a bit flat). But if none of the above applies and the vent still refuses to stay put, here is a little something to encourage it to comply.
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