Part Two – Turn bust dart into two pleats

Ok here is the final part of the Lily’s blouse draft. Here are the link to Part One.

Now I am going to turn my bodice bust dart into two knife pleats. Mark future position of your pleats on the neckline. I have marked the first pleat 2 cm from CF and second one 1.5cm from the first one. Draw lines from these point to the bust dart point.

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Mark pleats position

Now cut along one of the bust dart legs and along pleat lines to the bust dart point ( but not through the point). Close the bust dart, spread the pleats and make sure they are of even width.

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Cut, close and make pleats

I have glued my block to the sheet of paper on this picture to make sure my pleats do not move. Now trace the neckline ( Remember, I have widened it by 2 cm and lowere it by 1 cm? ). Make sure that your darts’ ( pleats’ ) legs are of even length.

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Trace new neckline

Now cut out the front bodice part

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Cut the front

Mark the direction of pleats – towards the CF – and notch them

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New front

Now all this pattern needs is neck and hip band and some seam allowances and it is ready to go.  I’d go with neck band 2 cm wide and hip band 4 cm wide. I would also replace Lily’s ghastly exposed zipper with a much more subtle button.

That is it! :)

 

Lena Merrin

by Lena Merrin

I make patterns and sew clothes. Maths are soothing.